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Guided Trails and Tales: A Week in Balkans



Two hours before checkout. Enough time to have one last coffee and pack up. This is the end of my Balkan tour. I explored five countries and over ten cities, opting for a guided tour this time, as a change, and this gave me the chance to compare traveling with a tour and solo. As you can imagine, solo travel beats traveling with a tour. However, there are certain benefits of traveling with a group and an experienced tour guide when it comes to the Balkans.

First of all, group travel allows you to cover more countries in a limited time. Originally, I planned this trip for just Albania with my sister. Then decided to extend our journey to Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro since we’re going to that part of the world anyway. But ended up seeing Serbia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Albania, Montenegro, and Macedonia. There was no way I could’ve seen this many countries in such a short time and actually understood where we are and what is the history behind them.

Also with the tour, we managed to visit some significant places between cities, a luxury often missed when relying on public transportation. When you’re traveling by bus or train, you kind of end up being stuck in the city centre area or using a taxi for a bit further destination. But it certainly does not give you the flexibility of traveling with a car. The Balkans, in my opinion, are best explored either by renting a car or with a tour, given its rich history. Of course, if you’re planning a beach holiday and intend to stay in one location for a few days, then come by yourself. But our itinerary focused on a cultural tour, allowing us only to explore the historically important places.

There are a few downsides to traveling with a bunch of people. It often involves a balance of rushing and waiting, leaving limited time for in-depth exploration. For example, during my trip, I woke up at 6:45 sharp every day. And while we were seeing all those beautiful places, we had only enough time to listen to the history behind them, walk around a bit, and take a couple of photos. Then on to the next one. There’s no way you could spend hours in one place you loved. Of course, you do have your ‘free time’ where you can explore more. But it's not enough for, for instance, visiting a museum. You usually spend that time shopping, eating, and toilet breaks. Overall, I didn’t really like having one to two free hours to spend in each city.


Serbia

Going through the country by country, I think my least favourite has been Belgrad/Serbia. The reason why I didn’t like Serbia too much, apart from the sightseeing, was mainly because the people there were somehow not very warm. Or let's say, a bit different than what I’m used to. And I am not even comparing them to Turkish hospitality, believe me. From the shop owners to the folks on the street, I hardly have seen a smile. I think the only thing I liked about Serbia was the fro-yo (lol), which was the first ever fro-yo I tried and the shop was quite good.


Bosnia- Herzegovina

Then Bosnia. Now, Bosnia is profoundly beautiful on its own. But learning about their history definitely added depth to that experience. I had the chance to listen to the war, what they’ve been through, and the Srebrenica genocide from one of the war veterans. I've visited the ‘Tunnel of Hope’ they have engraved, in order to receive some aid from others. I saw amateur video recordings from those days. They were hard to watch, but I am so glad I’ve watched them. Visiting a country, and knowing the pain the people have been through definitely is more meaningful than just wandering around the streets and taking photos of pretty buildings.

I loved both Sarajevo and Mostar. No further words are needed- they’re beautiful. Mostar was a bit more touristy, though. If a place prices out things in euros rather than their national currency, you can tell that it aims to attract tourists and is probably a few times more expensive. Bosnia coffee, Bosnia kebap ‘cevapi’, and their pastry ‘burek’ are a must-try. Loved the kebap and burek but didn’t like the coffee that much. To me, it resembles Turkish coffee with a slight twist, but stronger.


But in general, I really enjoyed the food in the Balkans. A, it is halal, mostly. And B, perhaps the familiarity of the cuisines makes them particularly tasty to me. And the people were absolutely delightful. I usually try to talk to locals a bit to get a sense of culture, and I particularly enjoyed talking to people in Bosnia. 


Montenegro

Then Montenegro. Here we visited Kotor and Budva. My absolute favourite was Kotor. The Adriatic Sea view was so stunning that made me definitely want to come back for some beach holiday one day. In both cities, we did a lot of sightseeing and visited cute little shops. I drank one of the best oat lattes here. In the Balkans, they usually make espresso, which tastes fine. But once you order different kinds of coffees, like cappuccino or latte, the quality significantly decreases somehow. Maybe it's because of the milk, I don’t know.


Albania

Then Albania. Albania was one of the cities I really wanted to see. It was the main reason I wanted to travel to the Balkans. But since we’ve only visited Tiran, the capital, and our free time was only an hour, I didn’t really enjoy it. Because there was not much to see in Tiran, at least in the central area. And I was not alone in thinking that. The espresso and Trilice were top notch though, I will definitely miss them. 

A funny thing happened in Tiran. We were walking in one of the main streets and my sister saw a street interviewer. They were looking for someone to interview. Of course, I had to walk towards them. The woman was holding a microphone while the man was using the camera. When they saw me, the woman started to talk in Albanian but then changed to English when she realised, I was just a tourist. She was holding a 50 euro banknote and asked if I shaved my hair for that money. I said of course not, at least for that amount, lol. She then asked me to tell 5 countries that start with the letter ‘F’. I said France, Finlandia, and Fiji. The last one was with a little help but I couldn’t find more. Later I found out, that there are only 3 countries that start with the letter ‘F’. Then the guy asked me how many seconds in one hour. Dudeeeee. The woman was so disappointed when I earned that 50 bucks for such an easy question. But I walked away with a happy smile thinking about what kind of comments my video will receive when they put it on TikTok, lol.


Macedonia

Our last stop was Macedonia. Here, we visited Bitola, Skopje and Ohrid. Macedonia was also one of the faves in the Balkans. Ohrid Lake was an absolute beauty. I was very tired at this point and mildly sick but still managed to enjoy it. Since this was our last stop and we finished the bits with the tour guide earlier than usual, we had loads of free time in this country. And I did a lot of walking by myself in Skopje, which was the highlight of the trip for me. I also had the chance to visit the most beautiful mosque I've ever seen in my life, ‘Alaca Cami’, which is also known as ‘Colorful Mosque’ in English. The painting outside and inside was all organic and was the most magnificent pattern I’ve ever come across. It was also a bit different than traditional mosques, which might be the reason I absolutely loved it. 


Also, some nice coincidences happened in Ohrid. I run into two different friends of mine from the UK. One of them was a Turkish friend from London, and I literally just bumped into him on the street, and we talked a bit. The other was an Italian friend from Swansea. He was a friend with whom I took one class and we stayed in touch but it's been many years since we talked the last time so I didn’t call his name in case it wasn’t actually him. Later when I texted, I found out it was him. And I promised him if I ever see him in another country, I'll say hi. Crazy small world.


Last words

I loved the Balkans in general, or at least the parts I've visited, very much, and I would definitely want to come again, not for a whole tour but to relax in a specific city. It is not only rich in history and culture; but also boasts stunning nature. Everywhere you look, it is either green or blue. Especially, with fall coming, as you travel from one country to another, you can witness the beautiful colors of autumn on trees, and magnificent mountains- sometimes foggy and scattered houses in the forest. The weather was also quite warm and sunny until the last couple of days.

There are so many Turks living in the Balkans, especially in certain parts of the cities, I didn’t feel like I was in a foreign country. In fact, some neighborhoods are predominantly Turkish. The call to prayer, Adhan, Turkish shops and cafes, Turkish tables around… And on the street, you don’t hear anything but Turkish.

Communication was pretty easy. Most people speak English if not Turkish. Currency conversion is not a problem, as long as you have some euros, you are fine. It was also pretty safe, so no problem traveling solo. You just have to figure out how to best use public transport etc, as some people said it might not be very punctual or reliable.

As much as I like traveling with others, I enjoy my own company more when it comes to exploring new places. This way, I can travel more consciously. I like to discover the streets by myself, embracing the getting lost and finding my way. I like to travel at my own pace. With others, sometimes, you lose track and don’t even pay attention to which city you’re in as you just follow the crowd.

Again, I believe, that taking a guided tour of the Balkans, which has a very rich culture, was a wise decision, as learning its history was an important part of this trip. Also, our tour guide, Turkan, was absolutely amazing in enhancing the experience and making it more fun for us. I would’ve loved history more if I had her as a teacher in school. However, I still don’t think I would do another guided tour in the future.    

As I was coming to the end of this post at the airport, I kept hearing our flight getting delayed a few times. Eventually, they cancelled it and we had to wait for a few hours while airport staff could figure out the bus and hotel for hundreds of people. We ended up staying another day in Macedonia but the whole process was very poorly planned, almost a disaster. 

When I was in South Korea, Itaveon stampede happened. While in Morocco, a 6.8 magnitude earthquake happened. On my return from Morocco, I missed my international flight due to my domestic flight being delayed and spent all night sleeping on the floor at the airport. And now the flight cancellation on my way back from the Balkans... It seems like I carry a bit of bad luck with me wherever I travel!  


 

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