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What the Pho: My Vietnam Journey


So many things to write about Vietnam… but this won’t be a long one. I just want to keep some practical points on record for the future.

Vietnam was my first solo trip after a while, and also my first proper hostel experience. I’ve travelled solo a lot before, and I’ve stayed in hostels before, too. But this time it was just… different.

I was truly sad when I left Hanoi. Exhausted after 11 days. Slightly sick. But also, sad.

I think it’s genuinely amazing that human beings are capable of moving around the world and making connections. Like, I could literally meet a bunch of people from all around the world, have the most interesting and brave conversations, and then never see them again. Travelling is freeing on so many levels.

And I think I’m starting to enjoy the human element of travelling more and more, even more than the “fantastic places” I’ve seen. In Vietnam, I felt that so strongly, and my extroverted side really came out towards the end, which is why I’m grateful.

Some stories are staying with me. I’ll share one that felt especially special.

I went on a day tour and met two other people during a break. We had coffee and breakfast and were just chilling and chatting. Then an older man approached us holding his phone. Google Translate was open, and it said:

“Will you talk to my kids in English?”

Apparently, he was bringing his kids, the girl was about six, and the boy was a bit older, to this place where tourists often stop for coffee and the toilet. He was encouraging them to speak to tourists so they could practise their English. Like… here’s your live Cambly.

The kids were so smart and asked us so many questions:

Where are you from? What do you do in your free time? Do you go to school?

The kind of questions you learn at school, but also more. And they had good answers to our questions, too.

I was impressed the whole time– impressed by how good their English was, but also by what a forward-thinking dad he was. Kinda reminded me of my own dad. 

He’s raising his kids to speak English confidently from such an early age. Those kids will be successful. Not only can they speak English, but they’ve also gained the courage to talk to strangers early on. They have real confidence.

Honestly, I was so touched by the father’s effort. He didn’t speak English himself, but he created opportunities for his kids in such a creative way. Not everything needs money.

 Practical information + things to know

The classics:

Bring cash. I brought dollars and exchanged them whenever I needed.

The food is chili, not always “spicy,” but definitely chili. If you don’t say “no chili,” you’re in for a surprise.

It was surprisingly cold and wet in January. Even though it’s supposedly the end of the rainy season, it rained a lot, and I definitely needed more winter clothes.

Traffic was the worst part. I knew it would be hectic, but Vietnam might be the most chaotic place I’ve seen in terms of motorbikes. Crossing the street was the biggest challenge; I genuinely felt like I faced death every time. The trick is to walk slowly and keep going. Cars and bikes are supposed to slow down, but they don’t fully stop, so they kind of flow around you — which is definitely not the calmest experience in the world.

There are so many different coffees, and I recommend trying them all: coconut coffee, egg coffee, salt coffee. But I think I liked Vietnamese black coffee (the original one) the most. It’s strong, but it feels kind of ceremonial.

Bánh mì was phenomenal. I never knew Vietnam had the best sandwich bread… but it’s also a sad reminder of the French colonial legacy.

There are lots of affordable Michelin restaurants. If you plan your time well, that could be a really nice experience. I had a reservation but didn’t end up going because I was too tired after my day trip.

You can do so many day trips and even a few multi-day trips, don’t just stick to Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi.

People are so nice, and communicating in English is manageable.

It was very touristy. Wherever I went, I mostly saw Europeans, Americans, and British people. So, I definitely recommend going to random neighbourhoods and meeting locals too.

Don’t buy all your domestic flights in advance. Then, if you don’t like the city’s vibe and want to move to the next sooner, it restricts you. Also, one of the good things about meeting other travellers is that you get to hear their recommendations about the places you’ll visit. So it's just better to be flexible within the country. But unfortunately, I am too much of a planner. I bought my flights between Ho Chi Minh, Da Nang, and Hanoi in advance. But it was way more hectic than I expected in Ho Chi Minh City, and it definitely didn’t need 4 full days. Da Nang was rainy all the time, and as much as I liked the city itself, I wanted it to be a beach holiday, but I couldn’t go to the beach once. I could’ve used those times in Hanoi- or exploring another destination.

Bring hiking or at least sturdy walking boots. I managed just fine with my Crocs, even did a hike. But I feel like I could’ve gone on some other adventures if I had proper shoes.

Accommodations:

Ho Chi Minh: 9 Hostel and Bar (link): 8/10- quite decent.

Hanoi: Hanoi Buffalo Hostel (link): 10/10- my best hostel experience ever.

Danang: I stayed at a beachfront hotel, it was supposed to be beautiful but was really bad, so no recommendations for this one.

Places to See:

Ho Chi Minh City:

Ben Thanh Market: there’s a day market + night market vibe; lively but a bit pricey for shopping.

Notre Dame Cathedral: it was under maintenance when I was there.

Central Post Office: historic post office, good for buying souvenirs

Mekong Delta tour: (link) day trip- boat ride, coconut candy workshop, village lunch, bee farm.

Da Nang:

My Khe Beach

Dragon Bridge: fire + water show at 9 pm on Fri & Sat, Sun- a bit overrated but I still recommend.

Marble Mountains: (link) day trip: Marble Mountains, Lady Buddha, Linh Ung Pagoda, Am Phu Cave.

Hoi An: day trip. No need to book a tour, you can just take a taxi/Grab. Very pretty town (UNESCO World Heritage). Especially beautiful after 6 pm when all the lanterns are lit.

Hanoi:

Ha Long Bay – day tour: I didn’t do it, but lots of people recommend.

Ha Giang Loop – 3–4-day trip. Very famous motorbike loop. I didn't have any time left to do it, but others recommend it.

Ninh Binh: day trip (I booked this in person from a travel agency- sometimes they are cheaper than online): rice fields, boat ride, cycling, buffet lunch, Hoa Lu ancient capital

Old Quarter / French Quarter / Ngoc Son Temple / Hoan Kiem Lake – I walked around these (and other areas) as part of my hostel activities. There are lots of free walking tours (tip-based).

Train Street – a famous spot. You need to check train times.

Golden Bridge (Ba Na Hills) – day trip (link): Ba Na Hills, French Village, amusement park, cable car ride, flower garden, winery. This was the most expensive tour out of all of them. The whole place felt a bit too commercialised. Also, if the weather is rainy, the Golden Bridge can be super foggy, so I’m not sure it’s always worth it.


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